Recently, some climber friends of Lisa and mine, Josh and Miranda, who live nearby, got married, and we gave them a present of historical rock-climbing equipment. We felt that they might enjoy climbing hardware more than additional house wares since they are well beyond their 20’s. Here is a picture of the hardware collection plus a row-by-row explanation of each piece of equipment.

Congratulations on your Wedding, Josh & Miranda! Since you are both rock-climbers, Lisa and I thought you might enjoy some historical climbing hardware more than housewares…

Row 1, Left to Right:   1) Cassin (Italy) soft steel, spoon “horizontal” (1950’s);   2) Stubai? (Austria) soft steel, “vertical” piton, purchased in 1960 by Ken’s father for our 1961 ascent of Yosemite’s Mt. Lyell. (1950’s);  

3) Chouinard, flame-cut chromoly (chrome-molybdenum alloy) “Bugaboo” (early 60’s);   4) Chouinard early die-forged thick-long Lost Arrow (mid 60’s);   5) Chouinard later die-forged thick-long Lost Arrow “horizontal” piton (later 60’s);   6) Chouinard later die-forged thin-long Lost Arrow piton (later 60’s), never used;   7) Dolt prototype D-eye piton, used on Ken’s 8^th ascent of Nose, 1968. D-shaped eye was meant to reduce leverage under load;  8) 3/16” bolt hanger, made by Dennis Hennek & Ken Boche, (mid-60’s);   9) Dolt ¼” bolt hanger (late 60’s); Leeper ¼” bolt hanger w/ Rawl drive stud (late 60’s);   10) SMC ¼” bolt hanger (late 60’s)

Row 2, Left to Right:   1) U.S. Army oval carabiner (1950’s) [Note: larger diameter than Bedayn (and other ovals of the time), plus no manufacturer’s marks.]   2) Bedayn oval carabiner (60’s-70’s) [Note: TCG on gate are Tom Charles Gerughty’s initials. Flip carabiner up to reveal Raffi Bedayn’s manufacturer’s mark.]   3) Chouinard later “D” model carabiner whose D-shape allowed gate to open when loaded with climber’s weight, useful in aid climbing. (Late 60’s) [Note: KB (Ken Boche) on gate; Flip carabiner up to reveal the Chouinard manufacturer’s mark.];     4) Chouinard RURP (Realized Ultimate Reality Piton). This is a later design with 2 holes for slings (late 60’s-early 70’s);   5) Dolt “Bashie,” a soft aluminum “piton” which could be hammered into irregular “cracks” and hold a climber’s weight during aid ascents.   6) Chouinard #2 “Stopper” (early model, 1972);    7) Chouinard #1½ “Stopper” (later model, 1970’s).

Row 3, Left to Right:   1) Chouinard 2” chromoly bong (Late 60’s);   2) Chouinard 1½”  chromoly angle (Late 60’s);   3) Chouinard  1¼”  chromoly angle (Late 60’s);   4) Chouinard ¾” angle, never used (Late 60’s);   5) Chouinard ½” Wedge angle, never used (Late 60’s);   6) Leeper chromoly Z-shaped piton  (Late 60’s);   7) CMI off-set piton (early 70’s);   8)  Chouinard stamp-cut “Bugaboo” knifeblade (Late 60’s);   9) Chouinard stamp-cut “Bugaboo” 2-hole model (early 70’s).

Row 4, Left to Right:   1) Chouinard 3” bong with lightening holes (early 70’s) [Note: Use a mirror to see the KB (Ken Boche) stamped inside the bong.]    2) Chouinard #5.5 Tube Chock (Early 70’s);   3) (above) Chouinard original #5 Hexentric (1971);   4) (below) Chouinard Polycentric Hexentric (1973 onward).